My apologies to everyone who has already built and loves their train tables.
I have been doing serious carpentry for the past 14 years, inside work, outside work, light framing and heavy framing, light trim and heavy trim. I have lots of experience with lumber, sheathing, its durability, longevity, and the lengths and stresses it can accept before sagging.
I am getting ready to build my 9ft x 5ft train table. My plans are to use 2x6 framing, and 5/8ths inch exterior grade rated APA plywood.
Because I am getting ready to build, I have been looking at some of the train table framing projects in pictures on this board, and I must honestly say that I am very surprised at some of the very light, and very undersupported, projects I am seeing.
I see some people building 4 ft x 4 ft square top frames using only 2"x3" "stud lumber" with no cross members inside the framing, and only one supporting leg in each corner of the four corners of the square.
Folks, 2 x 3 lumber, in four foot sections, will sage in the middle over time with little or no weight. Even four foot sections of 2x4 will sag over time with little or no weight.
No sheathing product is rated to span more than 16 inches between studs (much less 48 inches!), because it will sag in the middle. The only exception to this that I am aware of is 3/4 true plywood, which is rated to span 24 inches. It appears that some people are using plywood sheathing that is as little as 3/8ths inch thick.
I see people using OSB (flakeboard) as the top sheathings for the table tops. This is a weak product compared to real plywood. And, it has a poor ability to hold screws or fasteners. It also has a coat of sprayed on it, in case it gets rained on while constructing a roof. (If it actually does get wet, it comes apart in your hands like cardboard.) Due to this wax, I'm not sure how people are managing to paint it or put glue on it.
I see people using as train support legs, single pieces of upright 2x4 or 2x3, with no horizonal or lateral supports, free floating from the top of the table to the floor. One errant kick or hard blow to such a leg inward, on its outer flat side, can easily rip that leg from your top lateral framing, or split your top framing piece.
Now I know we are not building roofs and floors here. I fully understand that. But, I assume the goal is to construct tables that will not sag, will not unduly expand or contract, will not bend or twist from either drying or moisture, and will not fail to hold screws. And, I have to say, I'm just not seeing that.
If you think I'm kidding, then please go to Lowes, buy three or four pieces of 2x3 stud lumber, and buy a sheet of 1/2 inch OSB or plywood. Lay them on your garage floor for 10 days, without any weight on top to hold them down or flat. Then take a look at it. You will have to throw most of it away from warping.
Four weeks ago, I bought the book "Your First O Gauge Layout", published by Classic Toy Trains. It is a "how to" book, for people who know zero about model trains. In it, the author shows the construction of the most basic 4 ft x 8 ft train table. He says to use 2 x 4 stud lumber, spaced 16 inches between studs, and 1/2 to 5/8 inch plywood (not OSB). In fact, you can tell from his pictures that his plywood is 5/8ths. As his table legs, he screws two sections of 2x4 stud lumber together lengthwise, at a 90 degree angle, to build L shaped and very strong legs, and mounts them in corners or between studs and front framing, with 45 degree horzontal cross supports added.
Now, if this ABC "how to" book for beginners says that this is the proper way to do it, then why are folks building tables way way below theses standards?? Are there books out there telling folks to do this?
Comments?
Mannyrock
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